Polaris 280 Automatic Pool Cleaner Overview & Installation Instructions

April 26, 2012

This is Part 2 in a series of blog posts explaining the differences between Polaris Pool Cleaners. Part 1 - Polaris 360 Automatic Pool Cleaner Overview and Installation Instructions

The Polaris 280 automatic pool cleaner is a pressure side pool cleaner that runs off a separate pump known as the booster pump or automatic pool cleaner pump. Unlike the Polaris 360 that installs to your pool return line, the Polaris 280 installs into a dedicated pool cleaner line.

Reasons to purchase the Polaris 280 cleaner.

You have an in-ground swimming pool that has a pool cleaner line installed.
You previously owned a Polaris 180.
You are willing to spend a little more to get a dedicated pool cleaning system (pool cleaner line and booster pump).
You have large leaves, acorns and other large debris that get into the pool.

How does the Polaris 280 work?

It operates off your dedicated pool cleaner line and booster pump. This pool cleaner easily connects to your swimming pool return line with its 1-1/2” universal wall fitting connection (pools that have a different size return line while require the G-9 adapter or stub pipe connectors). The Polaris 280 has jets positioned in the cleaner that moves the cleaner, causes the sweep tail to sweep and creates the suction to vacuum debris into its own filter bag.

How is the Polaris 280 cleaner different?

The Polaris 280 runs off a separate booster pump and is installed into a dedicated pool cleaner line. When you look at a Polaris 280 cleaner compared to the Polaris 360 cleaner, 3 features should stand out immediately.

The feed hose on the Polaris 280 is smaller in diameter and looks closer to a garden hose than a vacuum hose.
The Polaris 280 has 3 wheels (2 large and one small) on one side and one wheel on the opposite side.
The Polaris 280 has a larger vacuum tube/throat with 2 vacuum jets.

The Polaris 280 is not belt driven like the Polaris 360, but instead has a drive shaft assembly.

What is the installation process for the Polaris 280?

Just like the Polaris 360, similar installation and adjustments need to be made on the Polaris 280 to get the cleaner to operate properly and efficiently.

Step 1 – Install the Universal Wall Fitting – The cleaner includes a 1-1/2” universal wall fitting connection. Most pools have a 1-1/2” threaded dedicated pool cleaner line, but if you don’t, Polaris makes additional adapters/connectors as stated above. Use the blue restrictor disk first in the installation process. The red restrictor disk may be needed if you are getting too much pressure to the cleaner (discussed in Step 4).

Step 2 – Adjust Feed Hose – Most people will skip this step, but it is necessary to making sure your cleaner operates correctly in your swimming pool. Your Polaris 280 cleaner comes with two different hoses. The hose that is connected to the cleaner is the leader hose. The rest of the hose is the feed hose.

Cut the leader hose from the end that attaches to the feed hose so the length is equal to the greatest depth of the pool. The leader hose is 10 ft. long.
Attach the leader hose to the feed hose with the swivel and mender nuts, connect the feed hose to the universal wall fitting and connect into pool wall.
Extend the hose to the farthest point of the pool. The leader hose end must be within 6” – longer or shorter – of the farthest point.

Note: The Polaris 280 comes with 2 feed hose sections that are 10 ft. each and 1 leader hose that is also 10 ft. If the hose is too long, separate the two feed hoses at the center swivel. Cut equal amounts of the overage from each 10 ft. feed hose section.

If the hose is too short, buy an additional feed hose section, one swivel and two mender nuts.

4. Adjust the floats on the hose. The floats should be spaced 2 to 3 ft. apart on the leader hose and 1.5 to 3 ft. apart on the feed hose.

Step 3 – Assemble the Cleaner – Assembling the rest of the cleaner is simple.

Attach the leader hose to the cleaner feed pipe and secure with a mender nut.
Attach the bag to the vacuum tube/throat and attach the bag collar to the leader hose.
Position the float head ½ to 1 inch back from the feed pipe.

Step 4 – Check for Proper RPM - Check your Polaris 280 for proper wheel Revolutions Per Minute (RPM). For maximum efficiency the Polaris 280 should operate between 28 and 32 RPM.

Mark the single wheel side tire (a piece of tape would work fine).
Turn on pump and hold the cleaner below water level and count the wheel revolutions for 1 minute.

Note: If your count is less than 28 RPM you will want to clean out the filter screen, skimmer basket(s) and pump basket. Check the hoses and swivel connections for leaks. Remove the blue restrictor disk from the universal wall fitting.

If your count is greater than 32 RPM you will want to replace the blue restrictor disk with the red restrictor disk to reduce the pressure getting to the cleaner. If the flow is still too high, unscrew the pressure relief valve (the pressure relief valve should only be adjusted when a restrictor disk is installed) until the proper RPM is reached.

How to Choose the Correct Above Ground Pool Steps or Ladder

April 13, 2012

If you are looking to purchase an above ground pool ladder or step, chances are you are having a hard time deciding which one is right for you. The first thing to do is understand what you and your family’s needs are. A few questions to consider:

1. Do you have local codes that require your pool to have a ladder enclosure?

2. Do you need a ladder that meets local codes for entrapment? Almost all ladders and steps made today meet entrapment codes. If you have an older ladder or step that does not meet entrapment regulations, please look into getting one that does. Especially if you have children using the pool.

3. What is the weight capacity you will need?

4. Do you have elderly or physically-challenged swimmers using the pool?

When I was shopping for my above ground pool ladder, there were no local codes that required a ladder enclosure. However, being the father of two young children, I knew I wanted a ladder enclosure. I wanted to be sure they could not climb into the pool on their own. I also knew that I wanted a ladder that prevented my kids from becoming trapped underneath the steps. A ladder that met the enclosure and entrapment guidelines was a must for me.

My wife and children do not need a hefty step, but being a guy that enjoys good food, I knew I needed something sturdy that will not break when I step on it. The higher the weight capacity, the better…that’s my motto! Since I knew I wouldn’t have any elderly or physically challenged swimmers using the pool, I narrowed my choice down to the Roll Guard A-Frame Above Ground Pool Safety Ladder by Confer.

The Roll Guard A-Frame Above Ground Pool Safety Ladder by Confer meets both ANSI and APSP barrier requirements. The lockable roll guard barrier keeps kids from swimming between treads when open. When closed, it prevents kids from climbing the ladder. It has a 300lb. capacity and comes with a 5 year limited manufacturer’s warranty.

Just before making my purchase, I spoke to a friend who has an above ground pool. I told him which model I’ve decided on and he suggested that I get a unit with entry steps. When I asked why, he explained that his kids were just learning to swim and the steps served as an area where the kids could sit when they needed a break. I was glad to get that piece of advice from him as that thought had never crossed my mind. So in the end, I purchased the Easy Above Ground Pool Steps w/ Ladder by Blue Wave.

This model is an economically priced entry system that meets all codes and entrapment regulations. It has a 300 pound capacity and is backed by a 3 year manufacturer warranty. This particular entry system does not have a step enclosure. But, the ladder does swing up and lock into place. This will prevent my children from entering the pool when not supervised. I have been very happy with this above ground pool entry system. There is a large variety of above-ground pool steps and ladders available. Many have additional features and there are even entry systems with a deck. Click below to see some of the other models and features:

Above Ground Pool Ladders, Steps and Decks

Happy swimming!

The BBQ Guru PartyQ

April 4, 2012

If you are looking for an easy to use and affordable temperature control device for your charcoal/wood fueled grill or smoker, the PartyQ by The BBQ Guru is for you. It is an all-in-one unit with it’s built-in 5 CFM fan. The 5 CFM fan is designed to maintain temperatures on small to medium grills and smokers. Now you can enjoy spending time with your friends and family at your next backyard BBQ while the PartyQ keeps an eye on your cooker temps. Also great for tailgating, BBQ Competitions, RV’s and vacations.

What makes the PartyQ truly unique is that it’s the only battery operated temperature controller available. This allows you to maintain consistent temperatures on your grill or smoker without needing electricity. The controller is extremely simple to use. Just adjust the temperature to the proper setting and let the PartyQ do the rest.

Some of the PartyQ’s great features:

The world’s first and only battery Operated BBQ temp control
Controls your charcoal or wood grill/smoker with its power draft technology
Makes slow cooking on charcoal a breeze
Fits most charcoal grills and smokers
Easy to install
Temperature Range 32°F to 475°F
Displays cooking temperature in degrees F or C
Runs on (4) AA batteries
Rugged, armored, high temperature probe
A Self contained control and 5 CFM fan system

Here is what you get when you purchase the PartyQ Temperature Control:

The PartyQ Temperature Control
5 CFM Fan
Rugged Stainless Steel Pit Probe rated to 500 Degrees
Owners Manual
4 AA Batteries
Silicone Kill Plug

The only additional hardware you may need is an adaptor depending on your grill or smoker type. For example, if you have a Primo Oval XL Ceramic Grill you will need to purchase The BBQ Guru Ceramic Grill adaptor along with your PartyQ for proper mounting.

Here you can see the PartyQ mounted to a Primo Oval XL using The BBQ Guru Ceramic Grill Apaptor.

Get your PartyQ today, you will not be disappointed!

Polaris 360 Automatic Pool Cleaner Overview and Installation Instructions

April 2, 2012

Two question customers frequently ask are, explain the differences between the Polaris Pool Cleaners, and which one should I purchase? Specifically in regards to the Polaris 360, Polaris 280 and Polaris 380 pool cleaners.

To keep this post relatively short, I will discuss the differences between these Polaris Automatic Pool Cleaners separately, starting with the Polaris 360.

The Polaris 360 pool cleaner is different from the Polaris 280 and Polaris 380 cleaners, because the Polaris 360 is a pressure side cleaner that does not run off a separate pump known as the booster pump or automatic pool cleaner pump.

Why would you purchase the Polaris 360 cleaner?

If you have an in-ground swimming pool that does not currently have a pool cleaner line installed and you do not have a separate booster pump. You are looking for an automatic pool cleaner that will work with your current system without any additional equipment/installation.

How does the Polaris 360 work?

The Polaris 360 runs off the pressure of your current pool pump and filter system. This pool cleaner easily connects to your swimming pool return line with its 1-1/2” universal wall fitting connection (pools that have a different size return line while require the G-9 adapter or stub pipe connectors). The Polaris 360 has jets positioned in the cleaner that move the cleaner, causes the sweep tail to sweep and creates the suction to vacuum debris into its own filter bag.

Is the Polaris 360 cleaner easy to install?

Installation is extremely easy. The cleaner includes a 1-1/2” universal wall fitting connection. Most pools have a 1-1/2” return line, but if you don’t, Polaris makes additional adapters/connectors as stated above. For most pool installs, you would remove your current wall fitting (which should unthread) and replace it with the Polaris wall fitting.

Note: If you have multiple return lines, you will want to install the cleaner in the return line closes to your pool equipment. This return line should have the most pressure returning back into the swimming pool.

Is my Polaris 360 ready for cleaning?

Some adjustments will need to be made on the cleaner to have it running properly and efficiently.

Follow these steps after you have installed the 1-1/2” universal wall fitting connection (Step 1):

Step 2: Now that you have your cleaner installed into the wall, your next step would be to test and adjust the water pressure (the Polaris 360 is packaged with a pressure tester installed on the hose). This process requires you to simply attached the hose to the wall fitting, have you pool pump turned on, cover the end of the hose with your thumb and confirm that water is released from the pressure relief valve (the pressure relief valve is located on the 1-1/2” universal wall fitting connection).

Note: If water is not released, you do not have enough water pressure to operate the Polaris 360. You will need to make sure all your skimmer baskets and pump baskets are clear of debris, you will need to check all connections on the hose to make sure everything is connected properly and you may need to adjust your diverter valve to make sure all the pressure is going to your return line where the pool cleaner is installed.

Step 3: Now you will adjust the feed hose to fit the pool length. This will help make sure the floats on the hose are positioned correctly and the hose is sized properly for the swimming pool. Larger pools may need additional feed hose sections while you would remove sections for shorter pools. Having the feed hose properly sized will allow your Polaris 360 to get to all areas of the swimming pool while not entangling itself.

Step 4: Assemble the cleaner. You will need to remove the pressure tester from the hose by unscrewing the hose nut. Then, attach the feed hose to the cleaner using the hose nut you just removed and attached the filter bag to collar on the cleaner which snaps into place. The filter bag has a bag tie that you will connect to the feed hose.

Step 5: Check your Polaris 360 for proper wheel Revolutions Per Minute (RPM). For maximum efficiency the Polaris 360 should operate between 28 and 32 RPM. Mark the single wheel side tire (a piece of tape would work fine). With the pool pump on, hold the Polaris 360 below water level and count wheel revolutions for 1 minute.

Note: If the count is below 28 RPM, you will need to clean out your skimmer baskets, pump basket, universal wall fitting filter screen, check the hose for leaks and adjust your diverter making sure all pressure is reaching the Polaris 360. If you are getting over 32 RPM you can adjust the pressure relief valve on the universal wall fitting to reduce the amount of pressure.

Now that you have completed all these steps, your Polaris 360 automatic pool cleaner is ready to start cleaning.

Installing a Gorilla Pad – Floor Padding for Above-Ground Swimming Pools

March 23, 2012

What is a Gorilla Pad and why should you use it?

If you are installing a new above-ground swimming pool or replacing your above-ground pool liner, you should really consider laying down a Gorilla Pad first. The Gorilla Pad is a super strong floor padding that will help protect pool liners from rocks, roots, and glass. It is an 1/8 inch thick non-woven polyester geotextile that has been used for decades. It looks and feels like felt, but don’t be fooled, it is extremely durable.

Unlike ordinary floor padding made from foam, the geotextile material is almost puncture proof! It is designed to protect your pool liner from stones, roots, or other sharp debris that might cut the liner. Geotextile membranes have been used in landfills to ensure that the landfill liner is not cut or damaged by the soil structure beneath it. Since a pool liner must also be protected from the soil structure beneath it, the Gorilla Pad is an excellent product for any above-ground pool.

Here are some of the highlights of a Gorilla Pad:

Unlike foam, the Gorilla Pad is a super strong 8 ounce thick geotextile that is almost puncture proof.
Protects your above-ground pool liner from subsurface cuts, tears, or strain.
Unlike foam, the Gorilla Pad is cut and seamed to fit your pool’s shape, so there is no cutting and taping.
It adds an extra layer of cushioning under your pool liner to reduce “foot printing” on sand subsurfaces.
Ease of installation.

Installing a Gorilla Pad:

The Gorilla Pad is designed to be installed easily in minutes. The following instructions are for a new pool installation.

Step 1
Excavate the pool site as directed in your pool kit installation manual. Remove all rocks or other objects from the pool site that may damage the pool bottom. It may be necessary to use a tamping tool or sod roller to produce a smooth, firm, and level surface upon which to install the pool. It is very important to get this part right. It is also very important to remove any weeds or grass from the area. Please read your installation manual carefully.

IMPORTANT: You must have prepared a firm, level surface before setting up your pool.

Step 2
After assembling the above ground pool, and prior to installing the liner, lay the Gorilla Pad down on the subsurface. Since the Gorilla Pad is pre-cut and seamed, it should fit easily on the inside of your round or oval pool. If any of the pad is too long, cut off excess with a knife to ensure it lays flat on the bottom of the pool.

Step 3
For additional protection, install pool cove around the perimeter of the inside wall of the pool. Pool cove will help prevent excessive stretching and premature wearing, adding years to the life of your new liner.

See chart below to see how many pool cove strips you will need by pool size:

Step 4
Be sure the Gorilla Pad is smooth and without wrinkles before installing your liner. Fill the pool with water.

That’s it. It’s that simple!

Slow Smoked Beef Brisket – Big Bob Gibson Style

March 19, 2012

Brisket is one of my top two choices when I am having BBQ. When done correctly it is hard to beat. But I have found that this is one of the toughest meats to prepare. I have gone through many a brisket trying to perfect my technique. While I am getting better, I am far from perfect. So, for this brisket, I decided to use some aspects of a recipe I found the Big Bob Gibson’s BBQ Book. It is similar to the method I currently use so I figured I would give it a try.

What you will need:

1 – Whole Packer Trimmed Brisket (Contains the point and flat)
1 – Dizzy Pig Cow Lick BBQ Rub (Or any rub of your choice)
1 - Worcestershire Sauce
8 – Beef Bouillon Cubes
1 – Large Foil Pan
Aluminum Foil

You will want to start by trimming the brisket. There are many different views on how much to actually trim from the brisket. I trim very little. I will removed as much fat as I can from the meat side but I leave most of the fat cap on the other side of the brisket.

Here is the brisket after the fat has been trimmed.

Next, take the 8 Beef Bouillon Cubes and crush them in to a fine powder. Then mix with 1 Tbs. of Worcestershire Sauce. Then apply mixture over the entire meat side of the brisket.

After applying the beef bouillon and Worcestershire Sauce mixture apply a liberal amount of rub. As stated above I am using the Dizzy Pig Cow Lick Rub.

After applying the rub cover the brisket and put in your refrigerator. Then you want to prepare your smoker. Set your smoker up for indirect heat and preheat to 225 degrees. I also added a few chunks of oak wood for additional flavor. This is not necessary and totally up to the cook.

Once your smoker is preheated place your brisket on the cooker fat side down. I used my BBQ Guru CyberQ to maintain my pit temperature during the night. I also hooked up a Maverick ET-732 so I could remotely monitor both pit and meat temperatures from the comfort of my house.

Close the cooker and keep it closed. Remember, if you’re looking, you ain’t cooking. Let the brisket cook until it has reached an internal temperature of 165-170 degrees. Then, remove it from the cooker, place it in the large foil pan and add 1 Cup of water. Seal tightly with foil and place back on the cooker.

Continue to cook at 225 degrees until the brisket reaches 185-190 degrees. Once the brisket reaches this temperature you can start checking to see if it is done. Briskets are not done when they reach a certain temperature. Some will be done at 190 degrees while others will be done at 205 degrees. To check to see if the brisket is done take a fork or temperature probe and insert it into the flat. If they slide in easily with little resistance the brisket is done. If the brisket isn’t done yet, cover and place back on your cooker. Check again every 20 minutes or so.

Once your brisket is done take it and place it on a large cutting board. We are now going to separate the point and the flat. These are easily separated by slicing along the vein of fat the runs between the two pieces of meat. Once separated take the flat and double wrap in heavy duty foil. Then wrap in a large bath towel, one you don’t mind ruining. Then place inside a cooler (no ice). This can remain in the cooler and will stay hot for up to 2-3 hours, or until you are ready to serve. Reserve a 1/2 cup of the drippings from the pan.

Now that you have the flat resting let’s get back to the point. Time to make some burnt ends. Trim any excess fat from the point and apply a layer of Dizzy Pig Cow Lick to the point. Then place the point back on your cooker for 1 1/2 hours.

Once the point has cooked for the additional time remove from cooker and cut into 1″ cubes. Then mix the 1/2 cup of drippings with your favorite BBQ Sauce and heat the mixture. Toss with cubed brisket and serve. These will just melt in your mouth!

Now it is time to slice the flat. Place the flat on your cutting board. When slicing the flat you want to be sure you slice it against the grain, not with it. I usually slice mine about the same thickness as a pencil.

Now that the burnt ends are ready and the flat is sliced serve the brisket with your favorite selection of sides. For this meal we went with corn bread, cole slaw, chick pea salad and mac-n-cheese. Enjoy!

Feel free to comment and let us know your tips to preparing that perfect brisket!

Slow Cooked Pulled Pork – A Simple Recipe

July 28, 2011

When it comes to BBQ it is hard to beat a good pulled pork sandwich. I’m not talking about the pulled pork you get from a grocery store in a bucket. I am talking about a pork butt slow cooked over real wood for hours until it has a nice bark and falls apart.

The good thing is, making quality pulled pork at home isn’t very hard. All you need is a smoker or a grill that can be set up for indirect cooking, a bone-in or boneless pork shoulder / boston butt and your favorite BBQ Rub. Once you have those things you are ready to cook some great BBQ.

I am doing two pork butts because you can never have too much pork. Once cooked you can always divide into portions and freeze for later use. Pork is great for sandwiches, on pizza, omelettes, tacos and so much more. I picked out two butts that were close to the same size so they would hopefully be done at the same time. They weighed 8.8lbs and 8.57lbs respectfully. As a guide, you can plan on 1 1/2 hours per lb. for your pork butts to cook. For example, 8.8lbs x 1.5 = 13.2 hours. This is only a guide as they could take as long as 2.5 hours per lb. Unfortunately, there is no rhyme or reason. It is just the way it is.

Start by unwrapping the butts and wiping them off with some paper towels. I don’t do very much trimming when I cook pork butts. I like to leave the fat cap on, so as it renders down during cooking, it keeps the butts moist. If there are any loose pieces of meat or visible veins, I will trim them.

Next give your butts a very healthy coating with your favorite rub. I went with Bad Byron’s Butt Rub. Don’t be shy, these are big pieces of meat so you can’t rub on too much.

After I am done coating the pork butts with rub, I pre-heat my cooker to 225 degrees. During this time, leave the butts sitting out at room temperature. I usually let mine sit out for about an hour before I start cooking. This gives the meat a chance to relax and allow the rub to adhere to the meat.

Once my Primo Oval XL was up to temperature, I placed the pork butts on the grill, fat side up. Notice the thin blue smoke coming from the Pecan Wood Chunks. Boy, do I love that smell! You can add flavor with different species of wood chunks when cooking. The fun part is finding what you like best. I prefer Pecan, Cherry and Hickory.

It is a good idea to monitor your meat and cooker temperatures with a remote thermometer. This will keep you from running outside every 15 minutes to check everything. Also, since I mainly do my longer cooks overnight, I can rest easy knowing my remote thermometer will alert me if something is off.

The next morning the temperature of the pork butts were 175 degrees. It stayed 175 degrees for the next 4 HOURS. Normally when cooking large pieces of meat, like pork butts and brisket, you will hit a stall point around 160-175 degrees. Sometimes you will even see the temperature drop a few degrees. Don’t panic and don’t raise the heat in your cooker to 500 degrees. This stall is due to the fats and connective tissue breaking down. This is a good thing and is what makes the meat so tender, so don’t rush it.

You want to cook your pork butts until they reach an internal temperature of 195-205 degrees. Finally, after 15 hours of cooking, both butts were ready to take off the cooker.

Now, just because they have reached the proper temperature doesn’t mean you should throw them in a pan and start pulling. You will have to wait just a little more. Take your pork butts and wrap them tightly in heavy-duty aluminum foil. Then wrap in a towel and put them in a cooler(no ice) for at least a half hour. If it isn’t time to eat yet you can hold these in a cooler for 3-4 hours. Just be sure the internal temps do not fall below 140 degrees. Once you have let the pork rest, its time to get your hands dirty. Place the butts in a large pan or bowl. Now have at it and get to shredding. You can use your hands, forks, Bear Paws or anything else you have handy that will work.

Once you are finished shredding it is time to eat. Pile the pork high on a roll or white bread and top with your favorite bbq sauce, cole slaw or nothing at all. I prefer to top mine with a vinegar based North Carolina style sauce or “dip” and slaw. Unfortunately, I didn’t have any handy at the time so I went with some Blues Hog BBQ sauce and some local sweet corn on the side.

I hope you enjoyed reading. Please leave your comments and feedback!

Slow Cooked Pit Beef

May 25, 2011

Growing up in the Baltimore area I have had my share of pit beef sandwiches. Usually top round grilled over super hot charcoal until the outside had a nice crust and the meat was cooked to a medium rare. Then it’s sliced super thin, piled high on a kaiser roll or rye bread and topped with sliced white onions and a huge helping of horseradish sauce.

I decided to try my own twist on this Baltimore favorite by slow cooking instead of using high heat. Yes, I know this isn’t true “Pit Beef”, but that’s what I am calling it.

First, I picked up a 4 lb. Beef Eye Round Roast from Sam’s club. This is a pretty lean cut of meat except it has a hard layer of fat on one side. I trimmed as much fat off as possible before applying a dry rub.

For the rub I went with Plowboys BBQ Bovine Bold. This is a great rub for brisket or any other cut of beef so I figured it would be perfect for this. After a coating of Bovine Bold I wrapped the Eye Round in plastic wrap and let it sit in the refrigerator overnight.

The next day I set up my Primo Oval XL for indirect cooking at 225 degrees. I used Wicked Good Lump Charcoal with a few oak wood chunks mixed in. While the grill was getting to temperature I removed the Eye Round from the refrigerator and let it rest for 30-45 minutes. Once the grill was ready, on went the meat.

Using a remote thermometer I monitored the temperature. I wanted to cook until the meat was medium rare. Once the meat reached 130 degrees in the center, I removed it from the grill and let it rest for about 20 minutes while covered in foil. As you can see, this does not have the charred crust of your typical pit beef. This is something you will not achieve when cooking at low temperatures for a short period of time.

After the meat had rested, I placed it into the refrigerator for a couple of hours. I find I am able to slice the meat much thinner once it has cooled. I don’t have a commercial grade slicer so cooling the meat helps quite a bit. Here is the first batch after I ran it through the slicer. As you can see the meat stayed very moist and did not dry out at all.

Now, time for the pay-off! I piled the pit beef high on a roll and topped it with sliced onions and plenty of horseradish. It was excellent! I did miss that charred edge flavor you get from cooking over high heat. But cooking low and slow produced a very tender and moist pit beef sandwich. I would definitely not hesitate to use this method again.

The New Maverick ET-732 – A Closer Look

December 6, 2010

We just received a small shipment of the new Maverick ET-732‘s in yesterday and wanted to give you a closer look at the unit. We will be publishing a in depth review in the near future. The ET-732 has many new features and we are looking forward to giving it a test run.

Front of the Remote Transmitter

Back of Remote Transmitter, On / Off button is now located on outside of unit instead of behind battery door.

Side of Remote Transmitter / Probe Input

Stand / Clip now has rotating clip

Front of Remote Unit

ET-732 w/ stand

New Orange Back light

The probe wires definitely seem more durable than the ET-73 probe wires. They have a heavier weave. The ET-73 probe wire is on the left, the new ET-732 probe wire is on the right.

As soon as we are able to give this new unit a test run we will let you know the results.

GET YOUR ET-732 NOW!

The New Maverick ET-732 Wireless Grill / Smoker Thermometer

November 4, 2010

If you like your Maverick ET-73 Smoker Thermometer, you are going to love the 2nd Generation Maverick ET-732 Wireless Barbecue Thermometer Set. The new ET-732 has all the functionality of the ET-73 but many great new features. Some of the new features include a longer range of 300 ft., the probes can withstand higher temperatures up to 716 degrees and a alert feature that lets you know when the unit is out of range. Also, the on/off switch is no longer in the battery compartment. This makes switching the unit on and off much easier.

FEATURE LIST:

Monitor internal temperature of meat and smoker or grill from 300 feet away!!

Wireless receiver with LCD beeps and flashes when meat temperature goes above your programmed temperature.

Monitor barbecue temperature. Receiver beeps and flashes if temperature falls above or below your programmed range.

Count up and Count down timer.

LCD of receiver has back light for use at night.

Receiver displays barbecue temperature up to 572 Degrees F.

Receiver has belt clip and built in stand.

Transmitter has removable wire stand that also becomes a hanger.

Food probe wire can be inserted 6” into meat.

Both probe wires are heat resistant to 716 Degrees F.

Can be used in oven, smoker or grill.

Lost like alert warns you if your transmitter is out of range or has lost the radio frequency signal.

Your meat, barbecue, and timer settings are stored even if the unit is turned off.

Has two probes – One Meat Probe / One Smoker Probe.

On/off switch on the transmitter is NOT in the battery compartment.

On/off switch is not a button.

Probe wires are slightly thicker and wire mesh has tighter braiding to improve probe durability.

Monitor internal temperature of meat and smoker or grill from 300 feet away!!
Wireless receiver with LCD beeps and flashes when meat temperature goes above your programmed temperature.
Monitor barbecue temperature. Receiver beeps and flashes if temperature falls above or below your programmed range.
Count up and Count down timer.
LCD of receiver has back light for use at night.
Receiver displays barbecue temperature up to 572 Degrees F.
Receiver has belt clip and built-in stand.
Transmitter has removable wire stand that also becomes a hanger.
Food probe wire can be inserted 6” into meat.
Both probe wires are heat resistant to 716 Degrees F.
Can be used in oven, smoker or grill.
Lost alert warns you if your transmitter is out of range or has lost the radio frequency signal.
Your meat, barbecue, and timer settings are stored even if the unit is turned off.Has two probes – One Meat Probe / One Smoker Probe.
On/off switch on the transmitter is NOT in the battery compartment.
On/off switch is now a button.
Probe wires are slightly thicker and wire mesh has tighter braiding to improve probe durability.

Polaris 280 Automatic Pool Cleaner Overview & Installation Instructions

You may also like...

How to Choose the Correct Above Ground Pool Steps or Ladder

You may also like…

The BBQ Guru PartyQ

You may also like…

Polaris 360 Automatic Pool Cleaner Overview and Installation Instructions

You may also like…

Installing a Gorilla Pad – Floor Padding for Above-Ground Swimming Pools

You may also like…

Slow Smoked Beef Brisket – Big Bob Gibson Style

You may also like…

Slow Cooked Pulled Pork – A Simple Recipe

You may also like…

Slow Cooked Pit Beef

You may also like…

The New Maverick ET-732 – A Closer Look

GET YOUR ET-732 NOW!

You may also like…

The New Maverick ET-732 Wireless Grill / Smoker Thermometer

ORDER YOUR ET-732 NOW

You may also like…

Search Blog

Stay Updated!

Blog Categories

Recent Posts

Archives

Find Us On